Compton Down

Sometimes it's really good to get away from it all, especially on a bank holiday when the roads are jammed. This walk around the downs to the west of the pretty village of Compton covers paths that are relatively lightly used and well away from the hustle and bustle of urban life. It's about five miles long with a few gentle ascents, wonderful views and a great sense of tranquility.

The start is in the village square where you can get a coffee if you need one to get moving. Take the road to West Marden south for a few hundred yards where you will find the first path well signposted. This leads through some pleasant fields and a small wood before meeting the lane along the field boundary and a junction with two other paths. Take the right hand path which leads  up the hill and around an area  of woodland.

If you have a dog it's a sensible precaution here to keep it on a lead as there are several areas of cover planted for pheasants with feeders; it's not a good move to get on the bad books  of the local keeper!

The day we went for this walk was at the end of August (Bank holiday Monday!) and was warm and sunny, ideal for butterflies which were flitting around along the margins of the path.

As you come round the top of the wood it's made clear that the path ahead is out of bounds with the footpath continuing to the right dropping

down to a junction with a bridleway in some woods. Care has to be taken here as there's a short footpath that cuts across two bridleways that can be confusing. The woods make a pleasant change, especially on a sunny day, the cool moist air is refreshing after walking over the hot fields.

The path then heads across several fields gently rising to to a trig point at the summit of the Down. These fields are particularly well managed for wild life with extensive field margins and plenty of trees at the boundaries as well as hedges. Plenty of small mammals attracts many raptors which can be seen soaring on the Downs here, not only Kestrels and Buzzards
but Sparrow Hawks too.

The view at the summit is limited as the trig point is away from the path and the south west obscured. Other directions are much better,  with outstanding views. Ditcham Park School stands out on the hillside to the north west as does Uppark to the north east.

It's an easy walk along the road past the only habitation on the
walk, Ekkensfield for half a mile or so. The route then follows a path across some fields that, in late summer, had just been ploughed up and rolled. In most places its not too difficult to see where to go on the other side but care needs to be taken.

Assuming that you can find the path, you'll pass over two narrow roads and arrive at the foot of Compton Down which is quite dramatic when compared with the downs we've walk over. It's always good to see a hill or two!

From then onwards it's a short descent to the road and then into the village where we started. If it's warm you might appreciate a pint from the excellent selection of beers that the landlord at the Coach and Horses maintains is this classic village pub that seems to evoke an age some time ago which was more leisurely. The food is good too and in winter a roaring fire would be just right after a cold walk.

Harting Down

This may be a relatively short walk but it's a very different part of the Downs where the views are simply stunning with a varied landscape. The start is on the Chichester to Petersfield road just before South Harting where you can find a National Trust car park just off the road.

The car park gets a bit busy but fortunately once on your way most of the people seem to disappear.  The path to take leads north east away from the car park up a slight incline.

The path follows the crest of a steep escapement, very soon there are wonderful views to the north and the pretty village of South Harting. The path runs parallel with a bridleway and as you rise to the top of Round Down the views just get better and better; to be savoured not rushed!

The path then descends through some patches of trees  to the

bottom of a valley where there is a junction with a path leading south down the valley and one climbing steeply up Beacon Hill; unfortunately that's the one to take! There's a good view of it on the way down and although steep, like most in the Downs it's not long and well worth the climb.

This is typical downland and, at the time of writing in high summer was still covered in flowers although many were past their best. There were plenty of songbirds too but as it was later in the year we relatively quiet.

Once the summit is reached there are even more impressive views, not only to the north but to the south right up to Portsmouth and the Isle of Wight. The Trig point on the summit confirms that there's no more climbing!

You then need to take an attractive path south towards, but not as far as, Telegraph House. Just before it there's a trailing fork that you need to take, almost going back on yourself. It's not far along this path to a junction where you can head through woods in the right direction, South West, once more.

On a hot sunny day it's pleasant to be in the shade out of the direct sunlight as you pass though
woodlands punctuated by open sections of grassland. It's all National Trust land and maintained in the traditional manner by grazing it. The path makes a gentle descent to the floor of the valley, where it makes a junction with other paths enabling it to be extended or shortened as you please.

What goes down, comes back up again and the footpath straight ahead is the one to take rising through the woods. These appear to be quite ancient with many yews and is reminiscent of Kingsley Vale. It's a pleasant climb which soon approaches the main road once more; it's a shame that it's so busy with an excess of road noise. Fortunately the footpath keeps a bit further away from the road than the bridlepath and skirts rounds the edge of a field.

All too soon we're back at the car park. It's only three and a half miles but there's a quite a bit of climbing to give us some exercise. It's good in bad weather and as there's no pheasants close by it's ok for dogs as long as there's no livestock grazing.

The Downs Around Goodwood

This walk starts off at Goodwood Race Course then heads up to Levin Down taking in Charleton and Singleton before returning to the Trundle.   It's just over 5 and a half miles which is mainly easy going bridleways so is good if it's wet; although the climbs are moderate there are some amazing views. Unfortunately it's not one of the best walks for dogs as there's lots of game and livestock about so they need to be kept under control for much of the time.

The start is at the car park just north of the Trundle which overlooks the race course. The first part of the walk is around the entrance and main stands of the course which is usually deserted apart from the occasional race days when they become a hive of activity.  This is soon left behind as you take Charleton Lane through the woods where there are lots of pheasants both wild and reared. It's a reminder that the Estate is a major shoot and you can usually

see them scuttling along the path in front of you; on each side of the path cover has been provided for the birds to hide in. 

It's a pleasant woodland path that soon descends into Charlton with it's popular pub, the Fox Goes Free, which is not to be missed if it's open. The Downs Bridleway continues north as the mass of Levin Down rises on the left hand side; there is a footpath up the hill if you prefer it. There are many wild flowers on the Downs but this is a particularly good spot and on a sunny day there will be plenty of butterflies.

After a while there is a junction with a bridleway going left before climbing the hill, take this path and leave the other for another day. It's a pleasant climb through the trees until you reach the top where there's another junction but this time it's well signposted; keep left following the direction to Singleton. 

The route then takes you over open downland before dropping down to the village. If you're lucky you'll see some of the deer that are common on the Downs here, at the time these pictures were taken there was a group of six in the distance, a couple with magnificent antlers. 

This is the west side of Levin Down and the views back over the Downs are as spectacular

as those looking forward to the Isle of Wight providing the visibility is good. Take care here as livestock often graze here which is great for the flowers and keeps the Downs as we like to see them.

The little village of Singleton soon comes into sight as the path drops down the hillside. If it's a Sunday in the summer months then you can stop off at the Village Hall for a ploughmans lunch or if it's a bit later for tea. Follow the road to the right for a few hundred yards before taking the lane south past some particularly pretty cottages to the Church.

Here you have to walk around the outside of the graveyard to find the path that's clearly marked to the Trundle. It may be a relatively steep climb but it's short until the path levels out and drops down the car park where you started. There is an abundance of flowers both on the descent and the rise out of the village, it's the pleasing result of a less intensive way of farming for which we've much to be grateful for.

If you've still got some energy left there's the Trundle to climb with it's splendid views over the race course as well as across the Harbour and to the north over the Downs.

Bury to Amberley, Stoke and Houghton

The Arun valley is a wonderful place to walk, right in the heart of the South Downs and this walk
covers a particularly attractive area surrounding Amberley. It's six miles that's predominantly flat passing through a variety of different habitats with outstanding views.

The start is just north of Amberley at Bury where there is a short lane that goes down to the pretty church and river; there's just about space to park a couple of cars even though it's quite narrow in places.

At the end of the lane is the rather grandly named Bury wharf which clearly has had busier times and was where a ferry operated. The path heads south along the Arun on the west bank where the river is lined with reeds and surrounded by meadows. At this time, in

May, the buttercups are out in abundance and the reed buntings and warblers are very much in evidence with their distinctive calls. This section of the Arun is tidal and the river flows back an forth with surprising strength although this doesn't seem to upset the ducks which are present in considerable numbers.

After a short stretch there is a bridge to cross over the Arun and enable us to walk on the east side leading to the hot spots of Amberley, especially the tea shop. It could be really attractive but a rather out of place mobile home site and a very busy road takes the edge of it. Crossing over the first section of the bridge to reach the footpath on the other side is a risky process, especially at weekends.

After a short stretch beside the river the path goes south, inland, to the little hamlet of North Stoke. Here the habitat changes as it passes through a wooded area that's clearly attractive to song birds; they can be heard but it's difficult to see them now that the leaves are out. We heard Blackbirds, Tits and Thrushes, I'm sure there were more but my recollection of Geoff Sample's excellent recordings and ability to identify them is limited.

Between North and South Stoke the path has to cross a meander of the Arun; apparently a tree fell on the original bridge but fortunately it was rebuilt in 2009 in the form of a magnificent suspension bridge by the Royal Gurkha Engineers. It's now known as the Gurkha Bridge, in a small gesture of thanks for a welcome crossing that benefits us all.

South Stoke is only a bit larger than North Stoke but it does have a particularly attractive church and a few more houses; shame it hasn't been able to support a pub which would make an ideal stopping
point just about half way round. It does have a bridge however so you can make your way over to the other side, around the farm and onto the path leading north close to the river.

Once more the going changes as the path rises along the edge of the Arundel Park into the woods. The river glints through the trees down below as you make your way thorough a mixture of what seems to be specimen trees from days

past. The air is full of garlic form the extensive beds of wild garlic that grows along the path even though it's well past it's prime in late May.

For much of the way there's a fine flint wall surrounding the park close by, how much effort that took to make is not easy to contemplate but a sad reflection on the cost of labour in past times. There is a gate through the wall leading down to Swinbourn Lake and Arundel, the path being part of the Monarchs Way.

The escapement here attracts raptors not only Buzzards but also Peregrine falcons which are a delight to see even if their call is a bit raucous; probably from Chichester where they breed. A bit further along there is particularly attractive set of steps leading up towards Houghton, the next hamlet. Don't be tempted to take them as they lead up to the main road and it's a nightmare to walk down it to get back on track.

Continue on the path which leads into Houghton which has got a pub; the George and Dragon is just off the path and only a short distance from the end of the walk, a good place for refreshment!

After crossing the road, just north of the hamlet, you rejoin the South Downs Way for a very short stretch leading back to the river bank; it's then a pleasant stroll back along the path we started on to Bury thorough the meadows towards the pretty church which is just in view through the trees. It's a good walk any time of the year but can get a bit muddy if there's been a lot of rain beforehand.

Fishbourne to Ichenor And Bosham

This walk is a little longer at 10 miles but passes through some particularly attractive and varied stretches of the harbour. The coastal path is followed down to Ichenor where you can cross the channel using the ferry and walk up to Bosham then back to Fishbourne; fortunately Ichenor is just past half way and The Ship makes an ideal break for lunch.

It's usually quite easy to park in Fishbourne near the Bulls head in one of the side roads nearby which is only a short walk to the pond and the start of the walk. The pond is managed by the Chichester Wildfowl's Association together with the reed beds at the top end of Fishbourne channel. Regular conservation work parties are held to keep the pond clear of excessive weed and to cut the reed beds on a rotational basis in order to maintain this particularly attractive area.

Opposite the pond there is a gate that leads along a small stream and out into the meadows which surround the reed beds to the east and form a peaceful haven as well as a nature reserve. From here the path leads down to Dell Quay; the short walk along the sea wall jutting out into the harbour is not to be missed as it provides a wonderful feeling of being in the harbour rather than beside it. From here, at low water,  you can get a good view of the remains of the tidal mill that used to be in the middle of the channel as well as the barrier that once held the water back; now there's not much left apart from a few stones and what looks like a causeway.

Dell Quay soon comes into view as you pass through another meadow and a stretch of coastline that's particularly attractive to wildfowl in the winter who are drawn to the fresh water that's flowing out of
the sewage works, good job it's pure most of the time now! Anyone with an interest in boats would find the area just before the Quay appealing as it passes the boatyard and a few gently rotting wooden hulls; I hope many others would too.

Once past the quay with it's sailing club and pub it's possible, and rewarding, to walk on the foreshore southwards although it's easier  and quicker to stay on the path. This busy stretch is described in "Bonnies Walk" which is a short circular walk down to the marina and back that's both pleasant and popular. Once clear of the delightful copse you approach the busy marina with it's lock which has to be closed to be crossed as there's no bridge; if it's in use it's usually not long before the gates are closed again.

The Salterns way is then taken through Birdham marina to Ichenor which winds its way along bits of coast and around houses; not the most attractive part close up but with wonderful views in places of the reach leading south west to the sea. Closer to Ichenor there's a particularly interesting stretch of waterside that changes character totally, dependent on the tide; at low water it's a mass of mud with boats aground and popular with wildfowl, at high water springs the sea is lapping at the path.

The path leads past the sailing club and, conveniently, out in front of the Ship where they serve excellent beers and good food. It's a pleasant break after about 6 miles of walking to have lunch there.
Ichenor is a good spot to tarry, it's pretty and there's lots to see as folk struggle with boats of every type, in and out of the water. Eventually it's time to move on and take the ferry across to Bosham Hoe, just a few hundred yards away on the other side. This is only available at weekends in winter but in the summer operates every day from 9 to 6pm; you can catch it from the landing pontoon.

Once on the other side there's a reasonable path around the shore north to Bosham provided it's not high tide, don't try it then! The whole area is rather muddy and the path is no exception but the view across to Cobnor is well worth the inconvenience and in summer there's plenty of samphire to pick as well. Gradually the distinctive church and then the rest of Bosham comes into view which must be one of the most attractive spots in the harbour. The road around the harbour floods at high tide with adds a bit of spice to the scene.  Houses as well as cars are vulnerable here when there's a high spring tide and low pressure.

Just before reaching Bosham you need to take a lane going east that leads to the footpath across the

fields back to Fishbourne channel. This makes a pleasant agricultural interlude with the odd hare and deer for company rather than sea birds. Eventually you see water in the distance and shortly after are back on the coastal path which leads along the sea wall back to the pond.

This area has many reed beds, which, in spring are full of life. The last time we went it was a joy to see so many reed buntings, sedge warblers and reed warblers flitting about, the air full of their song and calls.

Finally there are a few bridges to pass over, across the meandering streams then through the reed beds to the rather ugly Mill House and back to the Bulls Head and the start of the walk.

Bonnie's Walk From Dell Quay

This is a fairly short walk that's close by, ideal for giving our dog Bonnie a bit of exercise and for me, enough time in the harbour to reset priorities in a timeless landscape. It's easy to fit in, especially early in the morning, as at 2.8 miles of flat walking it doesn't take long. The only downside is that in winter it can become rather muddy.

What's particularly attractive is seeing the same part of the harbour regularly throughout the year in varying weather, seeing it in all it's moods and all it's seasons. We try to get there at least twice a week as many others with dogs tend to do.

The starting point is in the lane at Dell Quay, fine mid week but very busy on a Sunday at lunchtime. If it's not Sunday the lane is fine to walk down, but if there are lots of cars it's better to walk along the field were there isn't a formal path but everyone goes along there anyway.

After a few hundred yards you come to the Salterns Way which is a cycle and wheelchair path from Chichester to Wittering and makes a convenient way south.  The first part is a track leading to a small mixed farm with a dairy herd as well as arable fields.  This passes the site of one of the many second world war grass airfields that supported the Normandy landings with squadrons of Typhoon aircraft, not that there's any sign of that now.
Nearer the farm the hedges are teaming with song birds, and in
the fields there's often a hare to be seen; they stay frozen for a while then make off at incredible speed.

The fields between Salterns Way and the harbour are particularly attractive to wildfowl in winter, especially at high tide when they have to move away from the water. The air can be thick with Brent geese as they come down to join those already on the ground; at other times it also popular with Curlews and oystercatchers.


A short straight stretch of well made path then leads south and looking back there's a fine view of the Cathedral in Chichester rising alone, above the trees in splendid isolation, not another building in sight. It's visible for most of the walk, seeming to be watching over us, reminding us that we're close to home.


The path then leads into Saltern Copse and a change of atmosphere. It's not that big but is varied and well maintained as a nature reserve so there's lots to see from black caps to wood peckers. This gives an introduction to another of the  more pleasing characteristics of the walk, the large number of ancient oak trees  which occupy much of the copse and form a line along the shore for much of the way back to Dell Quay; you can't help but wonder what they've witnessed over the years.


 Leaving the copse you come to Copperas point with it's green marker buoy and mud that stretches well out at low tide. This is a favourite spot for Bonnie who never tires of going for a swim to retrieve sticks or, failing that, chasing stones. It's also a favourite spot for birds too and this morning there were eight Shelduck resting after a flight around the adjacent Chichester Lake.

Opposite is Old Park Wood, looking like a mass of broccoli on the other side of the channel; it's inaccessible and as a result one of the most natural areas of the harbour, lets hope it stays that way.

Dell Quay with it's yachts on their moorings is now in the distance; it's interesting to see the channel meandering along this stretch, especially at low tide; not easy to follow in a boat with a keel.  The Oak trees gradually build up as you get nearer affording the odd glimpse of boats and a roost for the many rooks here.

Providing it's not high tide it's easier and more interesting to walk along the shoreline, where in winter the wildfowl like to rest. All too soon the Crown and Anchor comes closer along with the pretty quay where there is an active sailing club and boatyard; it's  a particularly pleasant place to be, especially on a Summer evening with a pint in your hand!

The Canal Walk

This is one of the all time favourite walks as there's no need for us to drive anywhere, the walk starts at the canal basin and ends in the city centre. At just over eight miles it's a bit further than some but it's easy going and there's plenty of places to stop off for  a spot of refreshment.

The canal basin has been tidied up as part of a redevelopment and the canal trust have opened a new centre making it an attractive place for people to go to escape the more enclosed feel of the city.  A new canal boat now welcomes visitors who want to take a leisurely trip along the canal but can't work up the enthusiasm to walk; there's also canoes for hire for the (slightly) more active.

The canal was a waterway built to connect the city to the sea but never quite made it as an economic

proposition. With two roads now running over it and a crumbling sea lock at Birdham it's far from being a link to the sea now but the canal trust are trying to drum up enough support to do just that. Whether they succeed or not the path it provides to the harbour is a walk well worth taking, especially in spring when there's so much to see.

The first stretch from the basin passes an old swing bridge then ducks under the A27 before opening out into fields as you leave the houses of Chichester behind you. It's here that you can see the impact the Canal Trust are having on the canal with extensive conservation work and path
improvement. It's not long before you reach Huntston where you cross over the canal to the other side and see the view made famous by Turner; unfortunately it's now marred by power lines. All along this bank and further on the margins are filled with flowers which add a welcome splash of colour, especially in spring.

This is a pleasant place to stop for a few moments or, if you have the time or inclination you can visit the Spotted Cow, just down the road. The path then leads on to where there used to be a bridge for the Selsey Tram to cross over on it's way south; there's not much left now of the bridge or the line either for that matter. 

The canal is navigable all along this stretch up to Donnington where the canal boats have to turn around as the road makes a very effective barrier to progress. The character of the canal changes once you cross this road, the relatively clear water becomes wilder with extensive stretches of reed and weeds. Not so neat maybe but a much better habitat for swans, coots, moorhens  and the odd water vole if your lucky. In May there's always plenty of cygnets and baby coots with attentive and quite forceful mothers!

Once across the next road leading to Birdham you're walking through the marina which is interesting enough if you're out for that sort of thing but is hardly natural although it does have an excellent place to stop off for refreshments by the Lock. Over to the east on the right hand side is an extensive area  of reeds,  which is much more attractive if your interest is in birdlife. There is a rather fine hide there but I must admit that I've not seen that much about whilst walking past.

To go north from the marina you can take the Salterns Way which goes inland but a much more attractive option is the coastal path that leads to Dell Quay. The start is made by going through a pretty little copse that's maintained as a nature reserve and has many woodland birds; the views through the trees across Chichester Lake to Old Park Wood are especially attractive. It's easy to get on the foreshore once you're out of the woods at Copperas Point but only if the tide is reasonably low; the mud flats are home to many wildfowl during the winter although most have gone by spring.  In the cold winter months it's a delight to see so many Wigeon whistling as well as mallards and huge numbers of Brent Geese that settle on the farmland alongside, despite all the bird scarers, much to the farmers disgust.

This stretch to Dell Quay is not to be rushed, it's particularly pleasant and as you get nearer the quay has a timeless boaty feel to it as you pass the many moorings that dry out at spring tide on the way to the Crown and Anchor. There's a choice of walking the final half mile along the foreshore or staying on the path that leads along a line of very old oak trees  mostly lopsided as a result of the prevailing winds. After nearly seven miles the pub makes a welcome pause with excellent beers and a sheltered terrace, unfortunately too many other people like it too so it can get crowded.

Dell Quay is a busy spot with the dingy sailing club and boatyard, it's an ideal spot to launch a small craft. The final stretch passes by the hardstanding with boats ashore, then on through a traditional meadow full of buttercups in spring. The sewage works may not be the most attractive sight but you're soon past it and able to go out into the harbour on a small promontory, even in spring without wildfowl there are plenty of swans to be seen here.

The north side of the promontory is a creek and once past that the path leads through farmland to the delightful little church of St Peter and St Mary. Unfortunately that's the end of the rural part of the walk but it's not far back to the centre of the city under the A27, over the railway and along Westgate.

Wittering To Ichenor

This walk is the first one we did when we were starting to explore Chichester, well before we moved there and remains a firm favourite. The stretch between Wittering and Ichenor is, in my opinion, the most attractive in the Harbour with outstanding views and pleasantly varying surroundings.

To make it a circular walk it's necessary to take an inland path from Ichenor and fortunately the Salterns Way exists to do just that. It's not the most interesting of walks but it's good in parts, gets you there, and the way back along the coast makes it so well worth while.

After leaving your vehicle at the car park it's a

pleasant enough walk down the road to where the Salterns Way starts, just before the church; that is provided there's no traffic which is rarely the case. The path is wide and well made so that wheelchairs can follow it with relative ease; it's also a cycleway which can be a bit irritating at times.  After passing through a field there's a footpath which makes a shortcut for  those on foot and temporary relief from cyclists. In this part, there are plenty of deer skulking in the cover; they can come up quite close to the path here, a great temptation for Bonnie to chase, I'm glad her recall is better now she's a bit older!

There's then another section of road to cover leading past the few shops that still exist to the village. In summer parking here is at a premium as it's a favourite with cheapskates who want to go to the beach without paying.  In good weather it's always busy so to avoid the crowds it's best to take the path to the pretty little church then over a style and field into Coastguards Lane which leads to the sea.

The open area here by the salt mash and sea is popular and with good reason, it's a particularly nice place to be. The many small boats, either on the shore or moored in the small channels add character and the vista of East Head makes a splendid backdrop. Fortunately most people prefer to go there rather than this side, lets hope it stays that way. For much of the next stretch the view of the coast is obscured by bushes but it's easy to get on the foreshore if you want to.

Soon the path turns right on a small promontory that marks the edge of Ellen Nore, home to nesting Little Terns amongst other birds. In winter it's a good spot to watch wildfowl and there's a hide there to keep you out of the wind and rain. Ellen Nore has to be my favourite spot in the harbour; it's a lovely natural bay with plenty of interest that's only got a few houses which are not intrusive. One has a wet boathouse with rails running down to the water to launch and retrieve boats, reminiscent of an era before marinas took over.  The seawall is interesting in that it's strengthened with disused swing moorings, the concrete in much better condition that the riser shackles! It's a favourite spot for wild-fowling although not at high tide as in the photograph.

There's a short detour inland at Rookwood around a couple of houses before the path leads northwards alongside an extensive area of salt marsh. Its safe on the path but treacherous out there on the mud which is particularly soft to people but most attractive to birds.  This stretch of coastline has an ancient feel to it, it's lined with Oak trees, most deformed by the prevailing winds and providing a good home for songbirds. The woodland is pleasantly varied as is the path which is boarded along the boggy bits and weaves in and out of the trees in the more densely wooded areas.

If you're familiar with the harbour the views to the north are particularly interesting with Emsworth channel, Nutbourne Marsh, Thorney Island, and then Cobnor all clearly visible. The day these
 pictures were taken was a Saturday which is a top racing day for Ichenor Sailing Club amongst others  so the channel will be a mass of small boats at times, all fighting it out and making the most of the wind.

All too quickly the path leads round to the boatyard and Ichenor itself. It's just a lovely boaty place to go and fortunately there's several excellent places to enjoy some refreshments too such as the Quarterdeck at the boatyard or the Ship Inn which has some excellent beers as well as food. Maybe its the fond memories of mooring up on the piles, long before we moved to Chichester, and going ashore in the inflatable to eat at the Ship or the Yacht Club that make it so special. I hope you find it so special too.